Rope soloing lead practice. Yann Camus is one of those people.


  1. Rope soloing lead practice. Use our Soft-Cinch Backfeed Preventers to cinch your ro Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Gear, systems and everything else! Weight: 328 gr. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. I've pretty much adopted Josesphs exact method with the Eddy. This is a basic guide to rope soloing and does not cover every aspect of rope soloing. It may ruin your device, and could easily lead to injury and Lead rope soloing is scary. Watch our series of free video tutorials on rope solo lead climbing. Jun 15, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have taken 1 unplanned fall where the gri Jan 13, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Designed to set new standards in speed, performance, and safety, SULU GO is engineered to support the ambitions of the bold climber. How long of a static rope should you bring to lead climb? Oct 3, 2025 · Balin had been lead rope soloing on the 2,400ft Sea of Dreams route - a challenging climb on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California, according to his brother Dylan. Christian Feb 13, 2025 · The Prescription—Video Analysis Top-rope soloing is becoming increasingly popular. Dec 3, 2021 · Afternoon all, Could anyone propose a sensible top rope soloing set up? I'm sure there's a decent Dave Macleod video to watch this evening but would be interested to hear from the brains of UKC as well. Read about the basics of lead climbing, including what lead climbing entails, how to learn to do it and what gear is required. But how does the discipline differ from traditional rope climbing? The EDELRID Knowledge Base examines this as part of a risk assessment. Only the basic technique is described here. Now I would like to share my experience in order to contribute to an objective discussion. I'd Love to hear what you think Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. Advanced first aid in remote areas SIRIUS in 2003 and 2018. 5 or 11mm ropes. We'll walk you through the fundamentals of ground anchoring, choosing an anchor location, and troubleshooting rope jamming. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it A place to discuss rope solo climbing. Why Top Rope Solo? It’s my favorite way to practice climb outside—here’s why: Freedom of Movement – Climb at your own pace without waiting for a belayer to pull rope. You must have a clear understanding (which includes building know-how) of top anchors, ground anchors, and Rope Soloing Just watched Pete Whittaker's film about rope soloing Freerider on El Cap last night and since I haven't stopped thinking about how nice rope soloing sounds. Why (re)invent the GG Modifier for Lead Rope Solo (LRS) with a GriGri No more drilling needed! The GG Modifier is a glue-on accessory that secures your GriGri in the held-upright position, designed specifically for Lead Rope Solo climbing. I would never attempt either without a solid background in leading with a partner, anchor building, and especially self-rescue. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. The book compiles and clarifies diverse information, blending traditional methods with modern techniques. I'd rather Free solo, boulder, or top rope solo or stay at home and pleasure myself most days if I'm alone though. Currently, only one device Self Belayed Solo Climbing – Rope Solo Climbing in Top Rope and Lead Climbing If you’re considering self belayed solo climbing, you should already have mastered knots, rope techniques, belaying, and other safety-relevant skills. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. Top-rope soloing is an integral part of modern climbing. Back feeding rope is a hidden danger in lead rope solo systems, and can cause much larger-than-expected falls. Second, abseil the pitch to retrieve gear, and finally reclimb the pitch (usually via jumaring) to regain your high Feb 10, 2011 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. Feb 10, 2011 · The basic of the continuous loop With this system instead of clipping your haul line to the back of your harness, as well as the lead line (which in effect means you're trailing 3 ropes - haul line, 2x strands of lead line), you have one up rope from the belay and one down rope back to the belay, with the down rope generally 'docked' in some way, meaning you only have the weight of the up rope Aug 23, 2015 · Lead rope soloing can sometimes feel like trying to lead an R-rated climb with a novice belayer who has never used a Gri-Gri before while the rope is a tangled mess. Jul 17, 2025 · Lead rope soloing is a rare and advanced practice among free climbers, and sensibly so. In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) Safely lead rope-soloing can be a pretty complicated process. I almost always bring a rope for bouldering too, as I’ve found it more efficient (and safer) to practice high boulder Jan 2, 2024 · "On the Line" is a comprehensive guide to top rope soloing, a climbing technique traditionally passed down informally. Going at your limit, or pushing it, is unwise. Granted, it looks like hard work, but it makes the necessity of having a partner for lead climbing obsolete. “W” EARNEST anchor, MDA (Mult The basic procedure is: Lead climb the pitch, with one end of the rope tied to the current pitch's bottom anchor, and a lead solo belay device (upside-down GriGri, El Mudo, Silent Partner, rolling clove hitch 🫣 etc) attaching the rope to your harness. r/leadropesoloclimbingHas anyone had experience with the El Mudo Device? It is the only self locking device made specifically for rope soloing. It applies to sport and trad climbing. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Aug 16, 2022 · It is generally easier system to set up though rope pairing is critical for good feed and lock up There’s nuances to everything stated here - it’s not cut and dried or black/white. A compilation of rope soloing techniques across the Web (lead solo systems for big wall, rope soloing for sport routes, anchors, etc. There was just a post in the Lead Rope Solo (LRS) Facebook group: “Can you give me tricks for LRS multi-pitches, I would love tips and tricks for being as efficient as possible!”. At the top of the pitch, set a top anchor, and remove the rope from your lead solo belay Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. Apr 15, 2024 · Thoughts on Using the Wild Country Revo for Both Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo This is a re-creation of a series of posts I did on the FB Rope Solo list years ago when the Revo first came out. We discuss rope soloing here. After a discussion of the difference between lead rope soloing and top rope soloing Glen discusses the Q: “What is the Best System for Lead Rope Solo Climbing?” by YCamus | Apr, J, AM | Non classé I get this question all the time. People want to know what system I recommend in my LRS online courses. I only go lead rope soloing a few times a year, but these ascents are continually stand out experiences. Starting my rope solo climbing journey back in the same area where I also climbed my first ever free solo route. Feb 14, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. There are many different systems to use, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Yann Camus is one of those people. We too often see people with seemingly less experience trying to come up with innovative ways of building Lead Rope Solo (LRS) setups and backups. May 30, 2023 · Hey Everyone, The Collab you have all been waiting for is here! This week me and Yann get to have some fun lead rope soloing. If you have read my Redpoint Rope Soloing blogs, you’ll definitely want to check out the new lead rope solo accessories. I really think top rope soloing is superior to toproping with a partner, especially on hard trad routes where figuring out the gear and finding safe beta can take a long time. Will the fall occur near the anchor with minimal slack, or higher up with lots of rope drag? Nov 28, 2007 · The direction of the rope feed in the Eddy that makes it so good for lead roped-soloing makes it less than ideal for TR soloing, though that's the mode I use it in for seconding all my solo pitches so it's not that bad. Rope soloing is the term used for climbing on a fixed rope. Feb 27, 2021 · I don't lead rope solo anymore, but when i did, the best setup was a GG (and I've tried them all including the SP, Soloist, and Revo), facing backwards and a cache loop held by a minitrax connected to a gear loop. Using a stock or modified Grigri for rope soloing is beyond the manufacturers approved use of the device and voids the warranty. Jul 17, 2020 · Even experienced lead climbers have difficulty lead soloing, and if done wrong, can lead to serious consequences, even death. What system I use. El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). It’s both physically harder and more dangerous than climbing with a belayer. To me, climbing is about improbability - from improbable positions to unlikely movements. Why would someone want to climb alone? It’s not always a matter of wanting to climb alone. While creativity and problem-solving are valuable, this approach can lead to unforeseen risks, especially without a strong foundation in tried-and-true techniques. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you’re on a big wall you will probably need a second haul line/ rap line, and I tend to go for a 10mm dynamic, so I’ve got a spare rope in case the lead line gets trashed. I will be doing lots of rope soloing in the upcoming Roped solo is more dangerous than climbing with a partner is. Versatile Climbing Techniques: Suitable for Lead Rope climbing, Top Rope/Moulinette, Top Rope Solo. Rope Bags Lead soloing and top rope soloing are both very doable, common, and relatively safe when done by an experienced climber. Jun 1, 2021 · Trying rope soloing right after bouldering just because you know how to climb is the easiest way to get hurt. What are the community’s general thoughts on solo TR? After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. One of a kind gear for lead rope soloing. Jan 9, 2024 · Whistler's Mother, a 5. What system I think is the safest. It's counter intuitive (at least to me) but fed and clipped amazingly well. You might be disappointed by my answer. We talk about it, demonstrate it, and e Mar 18, 2025 · Lead Rope Solo (LRS), or solo lead climbing, is increasingly developing into a distinct discipline within the climbing scene. You will find here the continuous loop of solo climbing system Gear Solutions for the Core Rock Climber: including product offerings for lead rope solo, top rope solo, multipitch, and trad (traditional) rock climbing. Why not combine both fears on a 12a Dec 23, 2022 · This advanced technique should only be used by experienced climbers who feel comfortable rope-soloing and self-belaying. Whoever came up with that setup had a stroke of genius For leading with the rope in a pack the Eldelrid Did you watch our lead rope solo video? Feel like you are ready to try lead rope solo? Don't want to use our search bar? You're in the right place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA guide Jason Antin are back to provide an accident analysis and give you some quick tips on how to mitigate risk when top-rope soloing. When I changed my FB identity because of getting hacked, all my posts were lost. Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. This is just the beginning. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy Feb 10, 2011 · The good thing about rope soloing is that there is no drag at all, and if you do it right, also very little weight, so on tough climbs for 10. Rope solo redpoint near your limit with our accessories to improve LRS piece of mind and safety. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation. Important: In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety. Mar 5, 2024 · Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. When the leader reaches a belay, he fixes the lead rope to the anchor with a clove hitch and yells, “Line’s fixed!” Note that the leader does not pull up any extra climbing rope. Whipping on lead is scary. This type of rock climbing requires rigging a grigri or other locking belay device to the rope attached to a fixed object, like a tree, called a rappel anchor. Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Lead Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. This can be helpful for adjusting your position at the belay, as a back up when ascending a rope, or for lead rope soloing (advanced climbers only!) I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. This post is a follow up to my popular 2021 Redpoint Rope Soloing blog post. com/collections/lead-rope-solo-solutionsFor more details on my rope soloing methods Jan 24, 2013 · I dislike roped soloing, really hate it. Rope soloing is a hugely labour-intensive way of climbing. . Climbing terms get confusing, especially when they overlap. Compatible Devices: Petzl This video provides instruction in how to rope solo. Even if I’m out with a partner we tend to rig our own ropes instead of belaying each other. First, you have to lead the pitch. Dozens of tutorials, reports, guides, and videos are circulating on Oct 15, 2021 · An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing partner, who would normally belay you or otherwise assist you as you climb. This guide covers essential techniques, systems for different climbing scenarios, equipment comparisons, and crucial safety considerations. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Not familiar at all with rope soloing techniques, that was super interesting. Jan 5, 2019 · You can quickly adjust your clove hitch connection by clipping a carabiner to the “heart” of the knot. These accessory products truly refine a lead rope solo setup, enabling soloists to lead climb near their free climbing limit. Oct 30, 2024 · Lead Rope Solo is increasingly developing into an independent discipline in climbing. I have accomplished close to 100 pitches with this system, both free and aid climbing. installing Sep 17, 2024 · Eventually, I bought the appropriate equipment (the Silent Partner) and was able to put my theoretical learning into practical practice. Test, practice and be safe. The information in this guide is meant to serve as a baseline for rope soloing. Curious? Learn more about top rope soloing—link in bio. Free Soloing, like what Alex Honnold is known (and won an oscar) for, means climbing without any protection at all, usually wearing just climbing shoes and a chalk bag Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. Nov 24, 2024 · Disclaimer: Rope soloing is dangerous. A one handed solution for lead solo free climbing. But in practice, the Nano is so Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. You should not rope solo unless you are experienced in lead climbing, top rope soloing, and self-rescue techniques. Because of the extra effort involved, roped solo can feel half or a full grade harder than the route's rating. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. At this moment, there are very few voices out there that I trust without a doubt. Sep 2, 2010 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. Feb 3, 2022 · With the recent influx of climbing media, jargon like 'soloing' is spilling out into the general public. g. He and author of 9 books and viewed as an expert in big walling, soloing, and climbing techniques, having climbed El Cap over 40 times and climbed on all seven continents. Aug 25, 2022 · Multi-Pitch Practice Fig 1. I started experimenting with top-rope soloing a few years ago and have recently started leading solo. But I love climbing so I do it on rare occasions. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. It addresses the surge in popularity and associated risks of top rope soloing, offering a structured approach for climbers seeking to practice safely. This page presents equipment solutions for self-belayed progression. Solo climbing is not recommended: climbing with a partner remains the best solution, which allows partners to check each other (partner check). And as with most all soloing devices, the device/rope pairing is critical and can have a big impact on performance May 13, 2025 · An avid ropeless climber explores the terms scrambling and free soloing, surveying pro climbers and his own experience. This activity is only for climbers who are experienced with rock climbing and its safety equipment. How does he get down once finished? Or is this a top out and hike down only option? Jun 10, 2010 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. If you haven't watched it yet, check out our full lead rope solo video here! Mar 4, 2022 · There are a few ways to safely and successfully rope climb without a climbing partner. A comprehensive resource on lead rope soloing - climbing and belaying yourself on lead without a partner. Top-rope soloing can be pretty simple with a micro traxion/modified GriGri. If you get hurt or if the route is too hard, you are on your own. This is basically a recreation and archive of the content of those posts. Oct 9, 2025 · Soloing with a modified Gri Gri - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The Lead Rope Solo (LRS) systems presented at that time were newly conceived in isolation and a bit scrapy, but have now evolved through countless pitches and safe falls. ). You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. Scheduling Autonomy: no need to coordinate schedules with a belayer. What I think is the most simple and efficient. By adding a secondary attachment point with a breaking strength of 40-60 kg, this modification offers an ideal angle for solo climbing with a GriGri. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the Jul 14, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Soft-Cinch lead rope solo backfeed keeper. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). Freedom of movement: move as fast as you want without waiting on a belayer to pull in rope. 8 Rope SoloThere is a dark art that not many climbers talk about, and even fewer practice - rope soloing. This video is meant to highlight all the different systems so Oct 10, 2025 · Is the Nano Traxion a good choice for top rope soloing? I wanted to love it. Here are all of the things you need for Brent's lead rope solo system. Through his rigorous testing in his garage, vetting information from others, and field testing out at the In this video, I explain how I lead rope solo using a gri gri. What are the best techniques? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. A video I have been meaning to make for some time: I explain how to use a Solist Device for lead rope soloing. The term soloing means climbing alone. Here comes the main part, the actual climbing: leading the first pitch Lead Rope Solo multi-pitch practice: Lead solo, rappel to recover all materials, ascend to begin next pitch with all materials. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Why do people top rope solo? It's my favorite way to practice rock climbing outside. Certifications instructor of traditional climbing lead 2018 with the FQME and climbing guide Rock and Ice with the ÉNEQ in 2003 and 2006 Upgrade with AGMA 2018. In lead rope soloing, you act as your own belayer, and that means anticipating the dynamics of every potential fall. He's super savy on systems and safety, and he solos a lot. There are many ways to set up a top … Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I also explain how to build the anchor on a sport climb when there are no After quite a bit of thinking, experimenting and re-thinking – I have found a setup that I can justify to my family and enabled me to climb an 835m / 21 pitch route solo in under 12h. Unlike simul-climbing, which is better for easy and varied terrain, short-fixing is ideal for steeper aid climbing on clean rock. Feb 10, 2023 · Order Rope Solo gear from Avant Climbing Innovationshttps://avantclimbing. This essential add-on is designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to stabilize your top rope solo devices. Episode 4 of a series about my method to climb long multi pitch routes solo, belaying myself with two REVOs on two ropes. Apr 1, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Times when you may need to rope-solo include Whether top-roping or on the lead, rope soloing is risky business. e. Roped Solo (lead) Climbing With Grigri: WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous! Climbing solo is even more dangerous, follow this instructable at your own risk. Full Schedule Control – No coordinating plans, no waiting—just you and the wall. (Photo: Breanna Keller) Once comfortable with toprope soloing on single-pitch routes, try the system on a multi-pitch rock climb. Many other skills are essential for this activity: e. The lack of a hold-open feature makes it seem perfect—no mods needed, unlike the Spoc. He should, however, pull up the tag line and put it While I could have broken this video up into multiple parts I like the idea of having as much information condensed into one video. May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). c2x 0n 28aufy 5rb1 htk sxef mc nplq8r m1ua pozdi